11-Day Road Trip: Croatia to Montenegro
Montenegro and Croatia sit peacefully on the Adriatic coastline with rugged mountains landscapes, medieval villages and beaches nestled within hidden coves. This 11-day road trip will take you from the lively streets of Dubrovnik to the small towns of Budva in Montenegro with the perfect mix of outdoor adventure and chilled beach time.
The Basics
Location - Southeast Europe
Currency - Euro
Language - Croatian, Montenegrin, English
Religion - Catholic (Croatia) Christian + Muslim (Montenegro)
Drive Side - Right Hand
Plug - C + F
Short on time?
7 nights - 2 nights Mjlet (combining the national park and Odysseus Caves in one day), 3 nights Dubrovnik, 1 night Sveti Stefan, 2 nights Kotor
6 nights - 3 nights Dubrovnik, 1 night Sveti Stefan, 2 nights Kotor
Have extra time?
11 nights - Add an extra stop in the town of Ulcinj in Montenegro which is further south along the coast before heading back to Kotor
16 + Nights - Continue driving south into Albania. Once over the border start in the town of Theth before heading to the Albanian Rivera.
Day 1 Home - Mjlet
Once you land at Dubrovnik airport you can either take a taxi, coach or collect a hire car as means to get to the city. Typical of Croatian airports the buildings do not have the capacity for the number of tourists who pass through them daily so you'll want to make a speedy exit from the bustling crowd. We opted for the coach as with the first half of this itinerary a hire car isn't necessary so it's a good place to save some money. A one-way ticket is €9 with the first stop being Dubrovnik's Old town Ploče gate continuing onwards to the Main Bus Station in Gruž Port.
Depending on the time of year 1-3 boats run daily from Dubrovnik to Mjlet so you can either get off at the old town to kill time and have some lunch or head straight to Gruž Port to board your boat. The journey takes 1.5 hours from Gruž Port to the town of Pomena on the island of Mljet. I would highly recommend staying at Hotel Odisej Mljet firstly because no additional travel time is needed to reach it from the port and it's perfectly located next to the beach.
Tip: This is a long travel day with a lot of moving parts so depending on where you are flying from as well as the coach and boat timings it may be best to spend night 1 in Dubrovnik before heading onto Mjlet. In addition to this, there are no direct car ferries from Dubrovnik to Mljet island. If you opt to travel by car the only option is to drive from the airport to Prapratno and take a car ferry from there to Sobra in Mljet. The total journey time is about 2 hours, including 45 minutes of the ferry crossing and then a short drive to your accommodation. A plus to this is then having a car to travel around the island but you will be more restricted in ferry times.
Tip: Mjlet is a very remote island with one single road running from west to east. This does mean that you can’t really get lost but public buses only run twice a day so the best option is to stay in Pomena where you can hire cars and motorbikes for the day.
Travel Time: Plane, 40-minute coach, a 1-hour 30-minute boat
Day 2 Mjlet
Another great reason to stay in the town of Pomena is for its proximity to the entrance of the National Park which is only a 35-minute walk or 6-minute drive away. The park consists of two salt lakes and an old monastery which is located on an island within the bigger of the two. Tickets vary from £8-£15 depending on the time of year and hourly shuttle boats run to and from St Mary’s islet for an extra £3 so you can take a trip to the monastery. If you're feeling active you can rent a sea kayak or small rowing boat and easily paddle there in about 40 minutes. Alternatively, there are several hiking and mountain bike tracks around the park which run next to the beautiful blue waters of the lakes that can be enjoyed at your own pace.
With day 1 being travel-heavy it's refreshing to take your time exploring the national park. There are little to no food options so picking up food and water in the town of Pomena is essential. Make the most of the day here before heading back to Hotel Odisej Mljet for some sunbathing and a local dinner within Pomena.
Travel Time: 15 minutes drive total
To Do: Mjlet National Park
Day 3 Mjlet
Mjlet is most famously known for the Odysseus cave and it’s dazzling blue waters. The unique name comes from ancient Greek mythology and is located in the centre of the island near the village of Babino Polje. The path leading to the cave isn't clearly signposted so park up near the supermarket Tommy to stock up on some food and water before beginning the walk. On the other side of the road, there is a small wooden post labelled 'Odysseus cave' pointed in the direction of the ocean. The walk takes 45min to an hour and passes through vineyards and olive groves before ending at the coast.
The walk isn't easy especially as you get closer to the ocean so trainers are a must then change into water shoes when jumping off the rocks. There is a small cash-only shack selling drinks but apart from that, only a rocky untouched cliffside. The best way into the water is to jump if the ledge at the mouth of the cave and climb up at the base of the opening. As Mjlet is relatively undisturbed by tourism and the area isn't family friendly there is plenty of space with only a scattering of other swimmers and boats.
Travel Time: 1-hour drive total
To Do: Odysseus Caves
Day 4 Mjlet - Dubrovnik
The first passenger boat from Pomena leaves at 10:35 am and with plenty to explore in Dubrovnik it's best to get going after checkout. Once back in Gruž Port, you can either get a taxi or bus to your accommodation for a quick fresh before heading out for the rest of the afternoon. There is more to Dubrovnik than just the old town so pick your location wisely depending on how much time you want to spend exploring the wider area. For the two-night stay on this itinerary, we wanted to focus on the picturesque old town and booked a cheap Airbnb with views of the Harbour.
For the afternoon head out for a self-guided or organised walking tour of the old town stopping off at spots such as Dubrovnik Cathedral, Pile Gate and Stradun. Stradun is one of the main streets within the town's medieval walls, therefore, a tourist spot so allow yourself to wander off the main trail before heading to Buza Bar for sunset drinks.
Travel Time: 1 hour 30 minutes boat, 25-40 public transport
To Do: Dubrovnik old town walk
Day 5 Dubrovnik
Walking the walls of the old town has to be one of the most popular things to do in Dubrovnik and is best explored early in the morning before the coach tours arrive. Tickets are £28 and it takes anywhere between 1-2 hours to complete with plenty of photo-taking opportunities over the stunning orange rooftops.
A scattering of luxury hotels and rocky public beaches sit along the coast with amazing views back over the harbour of the old town. We wandered down looking for a spot to lay out in the early afternoon sun and stumbled across the opulent Villa Dubrovnik hotel where we decided to stop for lunch. You will spend a small fortune here and leave hungry however we were then allowed to spend some time at the hotel's private beach. A budget-friendly option would be to bring some takeaway food with you and walk down the tiny steep steps to Beach Đivovići.
In the late afternoon, there is no better way to see the sunset than out on the water in a Kayak. There are plenty of tours to join that set off throughout the day but golden hour is even more magical. Our particular tour started at the small port of Pile just outside the walls of the Old Town. Double-seater kayaks are available which, after 15 minutes of paddling, I quickly realised was a great idea as the tour is 3 hours long and pretty strenuous on the arms. As you push off the sand you won't miss the Lovrijenac fortress which sits imposingly atop a small cliffside and was built to protect the city from a Venetian attack in the 11th century. We then wrapped around the city walls until reaching the cave of Betina for a 20-minute swim break before heading around Lokrum and the Elaphiti Islands. This is the best way to get a unique perspective of Dubrovnik before heading out for dinner and drinks.
Travel Time: None
To Do: Walls of Dubrovnik, Đivovići Beach + Kayak Tour
Day 6 Dubrovnik
The best views of the old town can be seen from Dubrava Observation Point which can be reached by foot or cable car. To get ourselves up and moving we woke up early to head up the zigzagging path to the viewpoint. The walk takes 30-40 minutes from the start of the trail and is easy to follow but is on a steep incline. Alternatively, the cable car ticket is £25 return and offers a smooth ride up. The views are impressive and uninterrupted as you look out towards the horizon of the Adriatic Sea. There is also a full visitors' centre and cafe if you want to take in the views while having your breakfast.
Having seen it from the water and hilltop it's time to spend your final afternoon in Dubrovnik exploring the island of Lokrum. The ferry leaves every half-hour in the summer from the old port and takes 15 minutes each way. Once on the island check out the remains of the Benedictine Monastery and walk through the botanical gardens. The gardens were planted in the 19th century with a mix of vegetation and have a few families of peacocks still living there. Set up camp in one of the many coves to swim, sunbathe and snorkel along the coast of the island. There is only a small kiosk selling snacks and drinks so make sure to bring your own if you plan to spend more than 3 hours on Lokrum.
Travel Time: None
To Do: Dubrava Observation Point + Lokrum Island
Tip
Dubrovnik is an excellent place to position yourself for day tours into Bosnia and Herzegovina. Full of rich history and stunning scenery don't miss the country's beautiful towns Mostar, Blagai, Počitelj and Kravica Waterfalls.
Day 7 Dubrovnik - Sveti Stefan
An exciting day awaits as you pack up to head to a new country. The only way to travel from Dubrovnik into Montenegro is by road in either a coach or by private car. It is now if you didn't collect a hire car at the start of this trip when you could pick one up and drive yourself or, as we did, take a coach from the Dubrovnik bus terminal to Tivat airport. Although a little longer and not as comfortable a coach will save you money on a one-way car hire fee and the additional green card needed to take the cars around the Balkans. Once we jumped off the coach in Tivat we picked up a rental to continue our onward journey and explore the beautiful country of Montenegro.
The coast of Montenegro is 183 miles long which is considerably smaller than its neighbouring relatives. Unlike Croatia, it has no large inhabited islands along the coast but is home to 117 beaches and a scattering of pretty coastal towns. Without a doubt, the most picturesque has to be Sveti Stefan and with a range of accommodation options within walking distance to pristine beaches is the perfect spot to position yourself for a couple of nights.
The centrally connected island that Sveti Stefan is famous for was originally built during the 15th century to house 12 families when the town was no more than a fishing village. In 2009 it opened as the newest resort to the ultra-luxury hotel chain Aman but has remained closed since the start of the pandemic in 2020. Although no one can visit the island half of the beach that it is connected to is open to the public and a perfect spot to spend the rest of the afternoon. Make sure to take an evening stroll along the coastal path to adjacent bays Milocer and Queen's beach.
Travel Time: 2.5 Hour Coach, 1 Hour Drive
To Do: Sveti Stefan, Milocer and Queen's Beach
Day 8 Sveti Stefan
The freshwater Lake Skadar straddles Albania and Montenegro with Rijeka Crnojevića being one of the prettiest towns in the area on the Rijeka Crnojevića river. Search 'Pavlova Strana' on maps before beginning the hour-long drive towards this famous horseshoe bend in the river for the best panoramic view of this marsh-like dramatic landscape. The drive isn't the easiest and the roads are old so if you are not confident stay in Rijeka Crnojevića to take a boat tour around this stretch of river.
Your next stop will take you back towards the coast and to the popular town of Budva. Only a 15-minute drive from Sveti Stefan Budva has an attractive old town but is largely more contemporary. The old town is small with a tiny church and pretty beach Plaža Ričardova Glava which is a lovely place to spend the afternoon. We decided to take to ferry from Slovenska beach for £2.5 each to Sveti Nikola Island which only takes 20 minutes each way. It is a popular spot so walk further down until you find a quieter area away from where the boat docks to spend the rest of the day.
Travel Time: 2-Hour Drive Total
To Do: Pavlova Strana View Point, Rijeka Crnojevića Boat Tour, Budva Old Town + Sveti Nikola Island
Day 9 Sveti Stefan - Kotor
The drive to Kotor from Sveti Stefan is only 45 minutes so you will arrive during the morning giving you plenty of time to explore. Kotor sits nestled in the U shape bend in the Bay of Kotor surrounded by mountainous dramatic scenery. We stayed a little further out on the other side of the water in a self-service apartment facing the old town. I would recommend this as Kotor is a very popular destination for cruise ships which dock daily in the port making the area very loud and busy during the day.
Like many towns in Montenegro Kotor is small and easily walkable within a day. Once you have strolled around the old town head up the Old Kotor Fort Trail for the best views of the area. This trail is steep but luckily you don't have to make it to the top to be able to admire the incredible scenery. After lunch jump on a guided tour boat to visit St George's Island and Our Lady of the Rocks which takes only 20 minutes. These small and pretty islands sit across from the town of Persast with a striking blue-domed church and an adjoining museum. These tours leave frequently from Kotor and range from 20 minutes to the islands but can go up to 3 hours if you want to discover the whole bay.
Travel Time: 45-Minute Drive
To Do: Kotor Old Town, Old Kotor Fort Trail + St George's Island and Our Lady of the Rocks Boat Tour
Day 10 Kotor
Not far from Kotor is the beautiful national park Lovcen. The steep and curvy hour-long drive will take you directly up the mountain side with incredible views all the way up. The park is well signposted and parking is available which needs to be paid for in cash on arrival. The main viewpoint can be found within the Museum of Petar II Petrovic-Njegos who was the Prince-Bishop of Montenegro during the 1800s and cost €2 per adult. Exactly 461 stairs lead to the platform which offers a 360° view across the park which is located at an altitude of 1660 m above sea level.
Don't make the same mistake we did and turn up without cash. We managed to convince the parking attendant to let us through for free but were laughed at when we tried to pay the €4 entrance fee on a card. Luckily a couple behind us noticed our mistake and very kindly paid on our behalf. Once you have finished take a walk around the cafe/restaurant on site which is pretty touristy but a great spot to stop for tea and Priganice which are small balls of fried dough that are served with honey, jam or cheese. Although not far from Kotor the drive is hard so a visit to Lovcen will take up most of your last day.
Travel Time: 2.5 Hour Drive Total
To Do: Lovcen National Park + Museum of Petar II Petrovic-Njegos
Day 11 Kotor - Home
Enjoy your final morning having breakfast with views of the bay. Handily the airport of Tivat is only a 15-minute drive from Kotor making this final leg of the trip super simple. This airport is absolutely tiny and if you turn up too early you will be asked to wait in the car park before catching your flight home.
Travel Time: 15 Minutes
Tip
If you are not ready to head home and can extend your time continue your journey south into the beautiful country of Albania. Albania is perfect for those looking for laid-back and untouched areas of Europe. You won't find any large chain hotels or internationally recognised restaurants but this only adds to the uniqueness and second-world charm that the countries have to offer. I spend 11 days discovering Albania and North Macedonia but this can be cut down to just Albania.
Croatia and Montenegro make the perfect combination trip from afternoons spent exploring the Odysseus Caves on the remote island of Mjlet to the pretty peaceful town of Sveti Stefan. This route allows you to spend time in the popular town of Dubrovnik while mixing in a scattering of lesser-known locations along the stunning Adriatic coastline.
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