Discovering the Balkans: The Must-Do 11-Day Road Trip Through Albania + North Macedonia
When people think of Europe they often picture the turquoise beaches of Mallorca, the lively streets of London or the colourful architecture of Venice. With a continuous list of 'must see' places to be found on the continent, it can be easy to brush aside those less talked about in favour of getting 'that shot' for example, in front of the glittering Eiffel tower. But for those looking to walk down the road currently less travelled now is the time to dive into the quietest waters in the Mediterranean and walk the undiscovered mountainous regions of Albania and North Macedonia before the rest of the world catches up.
Day 1 Tirana → Vlorë
It's a quick turnaround at the airport after touching down and collecting your hire car before heading south towards the region of Vlorë. Having had a lot of city breaks and in-land trips over the last year we were keen to get to the coast to enjoy the last few weeks of Europe's summer. The drive will take around 2 hours so expect to arrive late afternoon in time for a quick swim and to watch the sunset. There aren't a tremendous amount of restaurant options if you stay on the coast but we did have a lovely dinner at Marina Bay Luxury Resort and Spa. A more flashy place than we would typically go to but the food was good and very reasonably priced compared to London.
Vlorë is Albania's third-largest city and consists of highrise buildings, restaurants and a strip of beaches. We opted to stay a little further down the at Hotel Kristina for better ocean views and swimming spots. If you don't stay directly in the city of Vlorë make sure you choose a hotel with a pool or ocean access and nearby restaurants as there isn't a huge amount to see and do making this more of a stopping point on the road trip.
Accommodation: Hotel Kristina (Coastal) ££ or AP Boutique Hotel ££ (City)
Drive time: 2 Hours
To Eat: Marina Bay Luxury Resort and Spa
Tip
If you have the time and energy for a longer drive then spend the night further south in the town of Dhërmi. Technically the Albanian Riveria runs from Palasë and ends in Lukovë but it's in Dhërmi where the water becomes clear with plenty of resorts and hotel options to choose from.
Alternatively, if you would rather stay put after a morning's travel spend the night in the capital city Tirana checking out it's vibrant food scene, cultural sites and art galleries.
Day 2 Vlorë → Himarë
Day 2 is where things get exciting as you drive past the dramatic mountainous scenery and turquoise waters. The drive from Vlorë to Himarë will take around 1 hour 50 minutes but stop in Dhërmi to spend the day at one of it's many beach clubs or explore the town's historical sites such as the Monastery of St. Theodore, the church of Panagia and the church of Hypapante.
Dhërmi is known for its wild nightlife, festivals and large-scale resorts so if travelling during summer this is the best place to be on the Rivera for entertainment and parties. A local described it to me as an 'Albanian gangster's paradise' as this is supposedly where a majority of the money laundering takes place. We enjoyed an afternoon spent in Dhërmi at Sanur Beach House before ending our day in the neighbouring town of Himarë and a lovely Greek dinner at Steki sti Gonia.
Accommodation: Geo + Art Boutique Hotel, Himarë ££
Drive time: 1 Hour 50 Minutes
To Eat: Sanur Beach House, Dhërmi + Steki sti Gonia, Himarë
To Do: Beach Club, Church of Saint Spyridon, Panagia, Hypapante and the Monastery of St. Theodore
Beaches: Perivoli, Drymades, Pepperon + Palasa
Make sure to read: The Best Beaches & Where to Swim on the Albanian Riviera
Stuck between Dhërmi or Himarë?
If your travelling as a group or love to party then Dhërmi is the spot for you. With multiple resorts, beach clubs and casinos there is always somewhere new to go with plenty of restaurants to choose from. Himarë is a small family-based fishing village with a small bay and strip of restaurants. In addition to the different charters of the towns, Dhërmi accommodation is more expensive due to it's large tourism draw compared to the cheaper Himarë.
Day 3 Himarë
The balcony views from Geo + Art Boutique Hotel over the harbour are the best in town so walk down for a quick morning swim and breakfast in a local cafe before boarding your boat for a day tour of the Rivera. Out of the 10 days in Albania spending the afternoon discovering hidden beaches and diving into crystal clear waters, it was unforgettable and the highlight of our time.
We used Himara Seas The Day as our tour guide who are bookable directly from their stand at Himarë's mini dock or via WhatsApp. Travelling by boat means you can swim in coves unreachable on foot or by car and is also the fastest way to travel between areas. If a boat trip isn't for you then head to Gjipe beach which is reachable on foot after a 30-minute walk from the nearest car park.
To Eat: i Love Souvlaki (Best of Lunch) Himara ‘28 Restaurant + Piazza Restaurant
To Do: Spend the day at one of the many surrounding beaches or head out on a boat tour
Beaches: Perivoli, Drymades, Pepperon + Palasa
Day 5 Ksamil
While in Ksamil you have to visit the UNESCO world heritage site Butrint. Only a 10-minute drive Butrint is an archaeological site that provides priceless evidence of ancient and medieval civilizations dating back to the 4th century BC. The city passed through many hands over the centuries from the Romans to the Greeks which have left an impressive range of still-standing ruins with my favourites being the ancient theatre, baptistery and basilica. The park itself offers stunning views as it sits on top of a hill peninsula surrounded by the channel that connects Lake Butrint with the Ionian Sea.
It's best to visit Butrint during the morning to avoid the heat of the day then spend the afternoon by the beach. We really enjoyed our time at Abiori Restaurant Pizzeria which offers day beds directly on top of the water with views over the islands. The food was also delicious and this was the only place that offered table service from the bar.
If you would rather continue exploring, local boat companies park next to the rope ferry outside Butrint Archaeological Park which will take you to Ali Pasha’s castle. Alternatively, spend some time out on the water discovering mussel farming which is a regional delicacy in this area of Albania.
To Eat: Abiori Restaurant Pizzeria + Guvat Bar Restorant
To Do: Butrint Archaeological Park 1000LEK/£7.50 , Beach Clubs, Ali Pasha’s castle + Mussel farming tour
Is Albania + North Macedonia safe?
I was given several questionable looks by people when I told them about my travel plans to Alania and North Macedonia. Sadly due to the communist past of both countries, the doors to the rest of the world were firmly closed for decades until they came down in the early 90's. This has led to a slow development of tourism and unfortunately a negative reputation from potential travellers. During my time in both countries, I found nothing but genuine approachable people and felt safe in all towns, cities and hotels. People were honest in offering directions, giving the correct change and asking if we needed any help. We did find their style of hospitality to be reserved and not so forthcoming to start but if you smile and show interest people are quick to respond in return.
Day 6 Ksamil → Gjirokaster
The Albania riviera surprised me in many ways from the clarity of the water to the vast amounts of undeveloped beautiful scenery however after 5 nights it's time to head inland. Drive to the 'Blue Eye' which is a popular attraction due to the water's clarity, vivid colour and undiscovered depth which can be seen from a viewing platform above. This can, however, be an expectation vs reality moment as the colour of the water is dependent on the weather and can be very busy with little viewing space therefore only add this stop in if you have some time.
Drive on to the Ottoman city of Gjirokaster which overlooks the Valley of the Drin River and Gjere Mountains. The city dates back to 1336 but changed hands over the years leaving a fusion of Greek, Byzantine, Albanian and Ottoman-influenced architecture. Wander the cobbled streets, shop for local ceramics and carpets or people-watch from the porch of a cafe. The old town of Gjirokaster felt like the perfect mix of Morocco's capital Marrakesh with Pocitelj in Bosnia Herzegovina and is a lovely fairytale town to spend an afternoon. After days of sun on the coast, we were hit with showers during the afternoon of our time in Gjirokaster so spent a few hours sampling traditional Albanian food in Taverna Tradicionale.
Don't leave without walking through the grounds of Gjirokastër Castle. One of the biggest in the Balkans it overlooks the city and dates back to the 12th -13th century with its famous clock tower built later in 1811. The entrance stone arches are impressive and the internal tombs and jail cells are incredibly eerie, perfect if you're like me and enjoy being spooked. The open courtyard is also scattered with cannons, views of the old town below and the mountains beyond.
Accommodation: Hotel Bebej Traditional £
Drive time: 1 Hour 30 Minutes
To Eat: Taverna Tradicionale
To Do: Gjirokastër Castle 200LEK/£1.50, Bazaar Mosque + Shop around the Bazaar
Day 7 Gjirokaster → Berat
A day to half a day is enough time to spend in Gjirokastër so it's time to get back on the road and head north towards Berat. Also known as the town of tiny windows Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage site full of historic charm. Make sure you stay at Hani i Xheblatit for the views over the river, traditionally inspired interiors and one of the best hotel breakfasts I have ever had. Take on the steep climb to Berat Castle ruins and viewing point or wander the small streets below.
Accommodation: Hani I Xheblatit ££
Drive time: 2 Hours 45 Minutes
To Do: Berat Castle ruins + viewing point both free
Day 8 Berat → Ohrid
After a breakfast fit for kings, day 8 is predominantly a travel day and time to venture into the neighbouring country of North Macedonia. The drive time between Berat and Ohrid is 3 hours but take into account queues at the border crossing and wait to purchase your green card insurance document. For us, the crossing only took 30 minutes but make sure you have requested and paid the border fee to your hire company on the Albanian side and be prepared to pay an additional fee on the Macedonian side. The green card document was around £40 and crossing fees were £60 in total.
Once arrived and checked in take a wander down to the harbour for a drink and late lunch. We headed to Porta restaurant + lounge which was a bit of a tourist trap but had lovely views over the lake. Late afternoon is the perfect time to capture St John at Kaneo church due to the golden light and lack of tour groups walking around.
Accommodation: Down Street-Old Town £ (Self-service) Villa & Winery Mal Sveti Kliment ££ Villa Varosh £££
Drive time: 3 Hours
To Eat, Do + See: Everything to see, eat + do at Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia
Day 9 Ohrid, North Macedonia
Spend the day exploring the cobbled streets, medieval churches and monasteries of the town of Ohrid on Lake Ohrid. There are 7 key sites all located within the old town and are easy to see alone or join an organised tour if you want to get a deeper understanding of each building's history. The red-roofed town is scattered across a hill so it's well worth jumping on a boat for the best views and to enjoy the lake's stunning scenery. For more information and guidance about your time at Lake Ohrid don't miss my article on everything to see, eat + do at Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia.
To Eat, Do + See: Everything to see, eat + do at Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia
Day 10 Ohrid → Tirana
Take in the final views of lake Ohrid on your drive back towards the Albanian border. Once you arrive in Tirana and have battled with it’s bustling roads and hectic parking it's time to stretch your legs. If you aren't a confident driver I would recommend staying further away from the centre or making sure to book a hotel with a car park. By the time we arrived, it was mid-afternoon so we opted for a healthy late lunch at Green + Protein. Following this, we wandered around Skanderbeg Square and visited BunkArt2 which is a small coveted anti-nuclear building turned into an art gallery.
Make sure you don't miss the Ish-Blloku area which was a former elite communist district now turned into an expensive area full of trendy bars, cafés, restaurants, and nightclubs. Stop in for a drink at the colourful Radio Bar which is home to good quality cocktails and showcases vintage pieces from Albania's communist era. Treat yourself to the capital's top sushi restaurant for dinner Salt where you will experience London-quality food, wine and dining at a fraction of the cost.
If you plan to spend longer in Tirana Head to the National Museum where they store thousands of objects from the Paleolithic era right up to the country's communist times. Ride the cable car up Mount Dajti for the city's best views and then pick from a huge range of activities at the top such as paragliding to mountain biking or simply sitting at the rotating bar.
Accommodation: B&B Artistic £
Drive time: 2 Hours 30 Minutes
To Eat: Salt, Radio Bar, Komiteti + Mullixhiu
To Do: National Museum, Mount Dajti Cable Car, Ish-Blloku District, Skanderbeg Square, BunkArt2 + BunkArt1, Bektashi Mosque + Grand Park
Day 11 Fly Home
Enjoy your final morning in Tirana by heading to one of the cute local cafes such as Antigua Specialty Coffee for breakfast. If you don't fly until the afternoon this would be a good time to climb to the top of Tirana Clock Tower for some final views over the city before heading to the airport.
Drive time: 30 Minutes
Tip
If you would like to extend your stay but don't want the drive north to Terth head to Blerina Farm House for a traditional Albanian farm stay. Located only 25 minutes away from central Tiranan it was recommended to me by a friend for it's relaxed environment and quality local food.
Albania and North Macedonia are the perfect countries for those looking for laid-back and untouched areas of Europe. You won't find any large chain hotels or internationally recognised restaurants but this only adds to the uniqueness and second-world charm that the countries have to offer.
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