Morocco: The Perfect 12-Day Road Trip, Tangier to Marrakesh

When you picture Morocco, many envision the glamorous Raids of Marrakesh or the bustling souks with stands piled high with vibrantly coloured spices. While these do exist, Marrakesh is only the gateway into the vast geographical climate, cultural history and warm hospitality that Morocco has the offer. From walking across amber wind-swept dunes of the Sahara or watching low-level clouds roll over the rooftops of Chefchaouen there is a perfect self-drive road trip for everyone.

The Basics

  • Location - Northern Africa

  • Currency - Morocan Dirham

  • Language - French, Arabic + Berber

  • Religion - Muslim

  • Drive Side -

    Right-hand

  • Plug - C + E

Short on time?

  • 7-day Chill - 3 night Marrakesh/2 day resort greater Marrakesh/1 night Atlas Mountains

  • 7-day Adventure - 2 night Marrakesh/1 night Ben Haddou/2 night Sahara Desert/1 night Fes

Have extra time?

  • 14-day Chill + Adventure - Add one night in Tangier at the start of your trip and extend one night in Casablanca and fly home from there

Driving + Car Hire

All the usual big brand hire cars operate out of Morocco’s main airport. We has an excellent experience with Avis who only charged us £340 for the 12 days including the one-way fee from Tangier to Marrakesh. Things only felt a little hectic when driving into Marrakech and Fez but everything felt very similar to the UK with excellent road conditions 90% of the time. The one thing to really look out for is the heavy police presence on the road. We received two fines; one for overtaking on a single white line and the second for pulling over. They seemed to be nowhere in sight but managed to catch us out both times with each fine costing around £35 each.

Day 1: Tangier → Chefchaouen

The flight from most European counties to Tangier is between 2-3 hours and with a long drive to your first stop, it's best to land before 3 pm. The 2-hour drive will take you through sleepy local towns, deep green sweeping fields and tree-dotted hills before you reach your first stop on this 12-day road trip, Chefchaouen also known as 'The Blue City'.

Being late afternoon by the time you check in you’ll want to have a quick turnaround at your accommodation so you can get out into the Medina before dusk ascends. We found a scattering of grilled sweetcorn stands, kids’ entertainment and small tourist shops overflowing loudly into the narrow-cobbled streets. There are many dinner options to choose from but if you are in search of a pretty rooftop head to a popular spot Clock Tower for a late dinner up above the bustling streets below.

Accommodation: Hotel Dar Annasr £

Drive time: 2 hours

To Do: Walk to the Spanish Mosque to admire the views, get lost in the medina, have your first fresh Moroccan OJ, hike to Akchour Falls, and enjoy a non-alcoholic beer on one of the town’s many rooftops

To Eat: Clock Tower + Bab Sour

Walk to the spanish Mosque Chefchaouen

Tip

Although I tend to avoid taking cash out at airports or using it altogether Morocco is a cash-heavy country with a closed currency, and many places won’t accept card. Cash machines are hard to find or tend to be broken so I recommend joining the queue at the airport Bureau De Change within the airport to take out around £100 to keep you going.

This leads me to food as on-the-go lunch options are hard to come by and when you do find one they are cash only. I recommend bringing snacks with you for all drives to have in the car during a long day of travel.

Fes rooftop perfect itinerary

Day 2: Chefchaouen → Fès

With day one being a heavy travel day you will be eager to get going and see this blue town in all its colourful glory the following morning. We headed straight back to the Medina, which was significantly quieter at this time, to wander the streets, snap some photos and stroke all the local cats that were lounging around in the sun.

As a few clouds rolled in we took this as the perfect time to head up to the Spanish Mosque for the best panoramic views of the local area. This easy 30-minute walk from the Medina is the perfect way to take in the town's cool-toned hues and appreciate the way it's nestled within the rolling hills of this region.

It's a long drive to Fès so best to leave around mid-day taking with you some lunch to have in the car. Arriving in Fès will be the first insight into a large-scale working Medina so it is best to know the most suitable parking spot for your accommodation before you arrive. In Fès we checked into the beautiful Dar Seffarine and were greeted with a warm welcome from the owner as well as fresh fruit and cold beers. The Medina of Fès is bustling and full of life from shoppers to fresh produce stands and artisans busily working away in their workshops. After a long day in the car, we headed straight to Fondouk Bazaar for an early dinner and although the service was a little slow this ended up being some of my favourite food of the trip.

Accommodation: Dar Seffarine ££

To Eat: Fondouk Bazaar

Drive Time: 2 Hours

fes morocco medina

Tip

Staying in the Fès Media and getting to your Raid is not as simple as following google maps. Many people will try to confuse, mislead and eventually ask you for cash as payment for their ‘help’. It is best to contact where you are staying for their recommended parking area and ask if someone can meet you there to walk you to the Raid.

If you do need to ask for directions ask shop owners and other tour guides for the most genuine and accurate advice. It is exhausting to be constantly approached by locals as they try to drag you into their shop but remain polite and patient and explain that you will come back another time.

Day 3: Fès

One of the main attractions of Fès is to see the famous Chouara Tannery. Approximately 1000 years old and still using traditional production methods involving pigeon poop and cow urine these are unique to Fez these are a must-see. Like most attractions, it is best to go early morning before the crowds appear and the temperature starts to rise to see the circular baths full of colour dyes and leathers at different stages of the dying process. Once ticking this spot off your list take a wander around the media for some shopping and head to the historic El-Jdid mosque for a peak inside in-between prayer time. Navigating around this city can be tricky and exhausting so we ended up eating at Cloak Tower for lunch on their rooftop and spent the afternoon enjoying the sun on the stunning roof terrace of our Riad before a lovely dinner at the Ruined Garden.

Accommodation: Dar Seffarine ££

Drive Time: None

To Do: Admire the leather dying process at Chouara Tannery, get lost in the medina (trust me you will), stop to smell the roses at Jardin Jnan Sbil or simply enjoy the rooftop of your medina

To Eat: Cloak Tower + Ruined Garden

Fes Chouara Tannery

Tip

The only way to see the Chouara Tannery is through one of the leather shops with the best one being number 10 as they have the widest balcony, therefore the best viewpoint to see the dying process. The location is accurate on google maps but other shop owners will call you in the street claiming to be number 10. Once you arrive at the shop be prepared to purchase something or politely decline and tip the staff member that shows you around.

The El-Jdid mosque is open for tourists but is closed during prayer time. This is multiple times a day and is hard to know when so it’s a bit of luck if you pass by and they are open. I would have also loved to go to Jnan sbil gardens but sadly these are closed on Mondays.

The Media of Fès can be overwhelming and we found the constant hassling from locals in the streets here the most intense throughout our whole trip. I would highly recommend getting a tour guide for 2-3 hours to take you around to be able to understand the history of the Media and to deter unwanted attention.

Day 4: Fes Midelt

After finishing your final meal in Fès, which most likely consists of fresh fruits and Msemen which is a traditional thick crispy pancake, it's time to make your way back to the car and continued south to the town of Midelt. As this overnight stop is recommended to break up the long drive to the Sahara, and with little to do in this town as a tourist, I suggest selecting a hotel with an outdoor pool so can you can spend the afternoon lounging in the sun.

Accommodation: Villa Pomme D’Or

Drive Time: 4 hours

Day 5: Midelt → Mourgoza

After taking a morning dip it's time for the second leg of your journey to the Sahara desert. As our satnav started ticking down to 20 minutes we were surprised to find ourselves driving through very flat dusty grey terrine until suddenly soft peaks of deep orange started to glow in the distance. As you pull up to the town Mourgoza, which sits on the tip of the Sahara, it's time to locate your accommodation guide who will direct you to their secure parking spot and whisk you away into the dunes in a 4x4.

After being shown to your tent it's time to sip on mint tea, explore the camp and walk around the surrounding area. Most Sahara camps will offer similar experiences so make sure you ask to be taken into the dunes to watch the amber-coloured sky light up for a magical sunset over the horizon. Dinner in the camps is a late affair to allow everyone to arrive from various destinations around the country and is filled with delicious traditional Berber food in large communal tents followed by music around the fire.

Accommodation: Sahara Majestic Luxury Camp ££

Drive Time: 4 hours

Day 6: Sahara

The are multiple activities that you can participle in while in the desert from 4x4 to go-carting or camel riding. After a huge buffet breakfast, we chose to spend the morning reading and having a dip in the pool as we waited for the heat of the day to cool off. We opted for quad biking which took us into the desert so we could see the true size and scale of the Sahara. Having spent time in the 4x4 on the way there a sunset camel ride was the best way to head back to camp for the evening and although a little uncomfortable it felt like we were walking through the set of Aladdin. After another large meal, we sat around the fire for some traditional Berber music and looked out for shooting stars as the embers turned from a deep red to black.

Accommodation: Sahara Majestic Luxury Camp ££

Drive Time: None

To do: Quad Biking, Camel Rides + Dune Tours

Todgha Gorge morocco road trip

Day 7: Mourgoza  → Todgha Gorge

It's time to leave one of the world's largest deserts behind and drive towards your first night stop on the route to Marrakesh. Todgha Gorge is situated next to the town of Ait Baha and is one of a series of Georges within the area. These gorges are all formed by the Dadas River which runs from the Atlas Mountains to the Sahara.

The gorge itself, although a tourist spot attracts local families out for picnics within the cool shade of the canyon and you can walk to the end and back in only 15 minutes. I recommend a night's stay in Riad Sephora which is only a 10-minute walk away from the gorge to enjoy a local meal out on their terrace.

Accommodation: Riad Sephora £

Drive Time: 4 hours

To do: Walk the Todgha Gorge

Day 8: Todgha Gorge → Aït Ben Haddou

If you are lucky and the hotel is quiet they will prepare breakfast for you outside as well which overlooks the river. This is also the perfect place for a morning stroll around the gardens that the hotel overlooks and defiantly makes this tiny town a worthwhile stop for a walk among the vegetable patches and surrounding mountainous rock landscaping.

After another 4 hours in the car, you will arrive at Aït Ben-Haddou. This has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987 and is made from rammed earth, clay bricks and timber. This is a big tourist spot with many famous movies and tv shows filmed here, one most recently being Game of Thrones. Arriving in the late afternoon the tiny town should have filtered out the majority of tourists to create a feeling that time stands still within the deep amber-coloured streets.

To gain the full experience it's best to check into Kasbah Tebi. Within the town's walls, this small hotel is uniquely lit by candlelight and offers guests an authentic and peaceful experience. As the sun lowers in the sky flickering yellow and pink take a walk across the river and look back for the best views.

Accommodation: Kasbah Tebi £

Drive Time: 4 hours

To do: Take a walking tour of the town, walk to the top of some great views of Aït Ben-Haddou

Day 9: Ben Haddou Oumnass

A windy drive through the Atlas Mountains awaits you on day 9 as you head towards Marrakesh. By this point, you will most likely be looking for something other than tagine so lunch at Kasbah Bab Ourika is the perfect spot for an outdoor dining experience up in the hills. After a few glasses of wine take a walk around the property and look out for the idyllic vegetable patch used by the restaurant to grow its fresh produce.

There are a huge amount of stunning boutique hotels or large-scale resorts for you to choose from around greater Marrakesh. We opted for Berber Lodge which is situated 30 minutes south of the city and consists of 9 separate lodges scattered amongst a private garden, pool area and vegetable garden. This is the perfect place after days on the road to settle down into green wicker chairs surrounded by olive trees, order a few cocktails and enjoy watching the local turtles run up and down the grass.

Tip: Google will take you the incorrect way to Kasbah Bab Ourika therefore you must follow the instructions on their website.

Accommodation: Berber Lodge £££

Drive Time: 4 hours

To Eat: Kasbah Bab Ourika

Morocco Marrakesh Resort

Day 10: Oumass

Where ever you spend the day take this time to relax! Pick a hotel with a pool, and a great restaurant where you can spend your time reading a good book on a sun lounger.

Tip: If you don’t have time to fit in the Sarah then camel riding and quad biking are also available in this area.

Accommodation: Berber Lodge £££

Drive Time: None

For my full thoughts and experience at Berber Lodge read here!

Marrakesh Riad rooftop

Day 11: Oumass Marrakesh

Say goodbye to your tranquil oasis and head towards the final destination of the road trip, Marrakesh. Having learnt our lessons in Fès on how to best park around the Medina we scouted out a free roadside parking space close to our Raid and walked in ourselves. On arrival, we were greeted with fresh mint tea and shown to our lovely room for a quick refresh.

On top of many people's lists, Le Jardin Majorelle is a 30-minute walk out of the Media and is connected to the YSL museum which is the perfect place to hide from the heat of the day. The garden is a very popular tourist spot and although beautifully maintained was smaller than we had expected so allow 45 minutes here and 90 minutes in the YSL Museum. Once you have had enough culture it's time for lunch at Jardin Restaurant out on the beautiful deep green terrace.

Having experienced a lot of local cuisines on our travels we were in search of some different flavours so headed to the new town area Gueliz to Plus61, a restaurant with a menu of mixed Mediterranean, middle eastern and south Asian flavours. The food and drinks were excellent and a refreshing change from Tajine. If you are not ready to head back after dinner walk straight to the theatrical bar Baromètre where they put on a show while creating cocktails full of flavour and drama.

Accommodation: Raid Dar-K

Drive Time: 40 Minutes

To Do: Le Jardin Majorelle + YSL museum

To Eat: Plus61, Baromètre + Jardin Restaurant

Marrakesh Raid Medina

Day 12: Marrakesh

The final day of your road trip across Morocco and it's time to head to the well-recognised Jemma El-Fnaa square. There is an endless supply of market stools and juice stands for a quick look around and it is ideally located near the Palacio da Bahia, which for us was sadly closed due to filming. La Famillie is a great outdoor spot for a veggie lunch and a slice of freshly baked tarts out in their hidden garden. For an afternoon treat head to Heritage Spa for a traditional hammam treatment using hot steam for a deep and invigorating cleanse using a series of soaps and scrubs. This treatment was fun and refreshing but I would recommend a massage after to wind down and relax. There is no better place to spend your final night than at Kabana Rooftop where they have an extensive cocktail list and mixture of Moroccan and western food before an early flight home the next morning.

Accommodation: Raid Dar-K

Drive Time: None

To do: Get a Hamman at Heritage Spa, wander the souks and shop for new homeware, Bahia Palace, Gardens of La Jardin Secret

To Eat: La Famillie, Kabana Rooftop, Comptoir Darna, Le Jardin Marrakech,

Marrakesh Raid Medina

Tip

Although Jemma square and souk Semmarine are the most popular I found this area to be very touristy with shops full of fake handbags and football tops. The best shopping was a little further away from the square and around our Raid so follow your instinct and you will come across much nicer streets.

Try not to look or hang around the chained monkeys or dancing snake. Firstly this industry is cruel and their owners will try and tempt you in for a photo and payment.

Coming to the end of our 12-day road trip through Morocco I didn’t find my main focus of reflection to be on the Instagram-worthy Riads or driving through the dunes of the Sahara. Although these elements will always define my time here what sets this country apart is the level of warm hospitality received from our hosts at every point on our journey.

Morocco has the perfect road trip for resort goers and adventure lovers. No matter how long, where or with who you choose to spend your time here there will always be a local willing to welcome you into their home for a pot of fresh mint tea.

I’m new to the world of travel blogging with more posts coming soon. In the meantime get to know me!

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